Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Maybe a pipe let go, maybe the storm found a way in. Either way, you don't have to sort this out alone. Call us from Dunbar, Virginia, and we'll put you in touch with a restoration specialist from our network, with truck-mounted extraction and dehumidifiers for the drying that follows.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Homes around Dunbar are older than in 92% of the 28,807 places we track. That usually means more joints, more repairs and more places for water to get out.
Dunbar gets more than 91% of the 30,291 places on our list. That's plenty of water to find a tired roof, a blocked downspout or a low spot by the foundation.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before December is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Tropical weather tops this list. The damage often shows up days later, as a stain on a ceiling. Not counted here: 2 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
No need to get it perfect. These are the things that make the biggest difference, in order.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
Mold can get started within 24 to 48 hours, so it's worth calling even if the worst seems over.
Typical build year
Most homes here are old enough to have been through a few rounds of plumbing work, and what's in your walls may be a mix. Galvanized steel pipe rusts from the inside, so low pressure or brown water is often the first hint. Cast iron drains crack along the bottom, where you can't see them.
Start in the basement or crawlspace if you have one, and look for rust stains, damp joints and pipes that have obviously been patched. If your sewer line has never been checked, a camera inspection costs far less than a backup.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The humid Southeast
You'll know this weather: warm and wet for much of the year, with big storms that come in fast. Wind-driven rain finds gaps around windows and roof edges, and low-lying roads and yards can flood within an hour. In this kind of air, nothing dries on its own.
Homes here run the AC for months, which means condensate drains that can clog and overflow, often into a wall or ceiling. Crawlspace homes hold on to moisture under the floor, and old plaster walls take a long time to dry. Each of those needs its own plan once it's wet.
Soil here runs from coastal sand to red clay and limestone hills. Sand drains fast, but it sits over a high water table, so groundwater can come up into crawlspaces in a long wet spell. Inland, red clay sheds rain toward your foundation and holds it there.
Outdoor air is often wetter than the air in your house, so fresh air won't help. The drying has to be closed up and controlled, with LGR dehumidifiers doing most of the work and air movers aimed at whatever's still wet.
When you call
We'll ask where you are, what happened and whether the water's still running. That takes a couple of minutes. Then we'll connect you with a specialist from our network who works in Wise County, and you can ask them when they can be there before you hang up. Homes and commercial buildings are both fine.
Expect a walk through the house with a thermal camera and a moisture meter, because what you can see is usually only part of it. The specialist will also tell you which of the three categories you've got. Category 1 water is clean, Category 2 is dirty, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. That last one changes the job, with plastic containment around the work area and negative air machines pushing air through HEPA filters.
Then comes the drying, and this is the part people underestimate. Standing water comes out first, with truck-mounted or portable units. Air movers then push moist air off wet surfaces, while low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers pull the water out of the air. If your house runs cold or the materials are dense, desiccant units can take over. Each day, readings of temperature and humidity, known as psychrometric readings, show whether the machines are keeping up.
So how do you know it's done? It's done when the numbers say so. A dry baseline from untouched materials in your house is the target, and each wet area has to reach it before the equipment leaves. It follows the IICRC S500 standard, and you get a record of the readings for your insurance claim.
It depends mostly on how fast drying starts and how dirty the water was. With clean water, carpet can usually stay and the pad goes. Hardwood often comes back with drying mats and patience, and sanding can take care of what's left. Walls may only need a flood cut, which removes the bottom section of drywall, so the rest stays put.
Things change when the water's dirty. Anything soft that sewage or floodwater reached, such as carpet, pad and insulation, gets thrown out. Hard surfaces get cleaned and treated. Have a professional look at any gas appliance that got wet before you turn it back on, and don't walk on a floor that's gone spongy.
From one end of Dunbar to the other, and on through Wise County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
We aim to have a specialist on the way the same day, often within hours. When a big storm hits all of Wise County at once, it can take longer, so it pays to call early. The steps above will help while you wait.
You can handle a minor spill if it's clean water and it hasn't gone anywhere. For anything that's reached the carpet pad, the walls or the floor below, professional drying really does make a difference, and floodwater or sewage should be left to people with the right protective gear.
Usually three to five days for the drying alone. The specialist can tell you more after the first readings. Materials such as hardwood, plaster and concrete hold on to water longer, and repairs can only begin when they're dry.
Usually, with clean water and a fast start. Drying mats sit on hardwood and draw the moisture out slowly so the boards don't split. Sanding and refinishing can fix any cupping that's left. Carpet needs a new pad, and it can't be saved at all after sewage or floodwater.
Many water losses are covered, so it's worth checking. The usual line is sudden versus gradual: a burst supply line is generally covered, and a slow drip often isn't. Flood damage needs a separate flood policy, and a sewer backup may need an extra rider.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.