Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Maybe a pipe let go, maybe the storm found a way in. Either way, you don't have to sort this out alone. Call us from Cleveland, Texas, and we'll put you in touch with a restoration specialist from our network, with truck-mounted extraction and dehumidifiers for the drying that follows.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
That's newer than 72% of the 28,807 US places we track. Newer doesn't mean leak-proof, though. It only changes what's likely to fail.
90% of the 30,291 places we track come out drier. That's plenty of water to find a tired roof, a blocked downspout or a low spot by the foundation.
If you've been meaning to clear the gutters, do it before October comes around.
Flooding leads the list here. Floodwater is never clean, so anything it touches needs more than drying. We've left out 3 for other causes, such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
You don't have to do all of this. Do what's safe, in this order, and leave the rest.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
The clock on mold is roughly 24 to 48 hours, which is why we'd rather hear from you early.
Typical build year
If your house dates from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s, take a look at the pipes. Polybutylene went into a lot of homes in those years. It's gray plastic, and it has a habit of failing with no warning. You can often spot it at the water heater or under a sink.
Then there's the water heater itself. Most tanks last 8 to 12 years, so a house this age is probably on its second or third, and yours may be getting close. If you see polybutylene, it's worth asking a plumber about it, even if nothing's leaking yet.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
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Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The southern plains
Spring storms here don't mess around. Hail cracks shingles and skylights, and the rain can come faster than the gutters can take it. You might not see the leak until days later, on a ceiling two rooms away from the actual damage. A hard freeze is rarer, but when one lasts a day or two it splits pipes that were never protected for it.
A lot of homes here are built on slabs, with brick veneer over wood framing. Water that gets behind the brick can wet the studs and insulation without showing inside. Older neighborhoods still have pier-and-beam houses, where moisture collects in the crawlspace. Attic water heaters and air conditioning units add another risk, because a clogged condensate line drains straight through your ceiling.
After a dry spell, clay ground pulls away from the foundation, and the next heavy rain runs right into the gap. All that swelling and shrinking strains the pipes in the ground as well. It's one big reason slab leaks are so common around here.
A leak under a slab needs its own approach. Specialists use acoustic listening equipment and thermal imaging to find the break without jackhammering the whole floor, and then dry the flooring and the bottom of the walls around it.
When you call
Don't worry about having the right words. Just tell us what you're seeing. We'll get your address and a rough idea of the damage, then put you through to a specialist in our network who works around Cleveland. They handle homes and commercial property, and they'll give you a time.
Expect a walk through the house with a thermal camera and a moisture meter, because what you can see is usually only part of it. The specialist will also tell you which of the three categories you've got. Category 1 water is clean, Category 2 is dirty, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. That last one changes the job, with plastic containment around the work area and negative air machines pushing air through HEPA filters.
Expect the drying to take longer than the cleanup. After a truck-mounted or portable unit has pulled out the standing water, air movers and LGR (low grain refrigerant) dehumidifiers run around the clock. Desiccant units get swapped in for cold rooms and dense materials. The specialist takes psychrometric readings each day, tracking temperature and humidity to see how fast the air is taking up water.
A wall can feel dry and still hold plenty of water. That's why the specialist measures a dry standard from unaffected wood and drywall nearby and keeps the equipment running until the wet areas match. This is the method in the IICRC S500 standard, and those moisture logs back up your insurance claim.
It depends mostly on how fast drying starts and how dirty the water was. With clean water, carpet can usually stay and the pad goes. Hardwood often comes back with drying mats and patience, and sanding can take care of what's left. Walls may only need a flood cut, which removes the bottom section of drywall, so the rest stays put.
If it was sewage or floodwater, porous things usually can't be saved. Carpet, pad and soaked insulation go in the dumpster, and studs and hard floors get cleaned and disinfected. Keep clear of any gas appliance that was underwater, and of any floor with a bit of bounce, until a professional has checked them.
We take calls from all over Cleveland and the rest of Liberty County, for houses, apartments and commercial buildings. If you're not sure you're close enough, just ask.
It depends on the time and the weather, but same-day help is what we aim for, and it's often a matter of hours. The local specialist will give you a time on the phone, so you're not left guessing.
A small spill of clean water on a hard floor? Sure. Towels and a fan will do it. But if the water's in the walls, the carpet pad or the subfloor, or it came from a sewer or a flood, you'll want it extracted and properly dried. What you can't see is what keeps causing damage.
Plan on several days. Three to five is typical, though a small, fresh leak may be quicker and a large flood may take over a week. The readings decide when it's done, not the calendar.
Usually, with clean water and a fast start. Drying mats sit on hardwood and draw the moisture out slowly so the boards don't split. Sanding and refinishing can fix any cupping that's left. Carpet needs a new pad, and it can't be saved at all after sewage or floodwater.
Many water losses are covered, so it's worth checking. The usual line is sudden versus gradual: a burst supply line is generally covered, and a slow drip often isn't. Flood damage needs a separate flood policy, and a sewer backup may need an extra rider.
It's quick. Give us your address, and we'll connect you with a local specialist who can tell you when they'll be there.