Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
A leak at 2 a.m. doesn't wait for business hours, and neither do we. If water's getting into your home or business in Shellytown, Pennsylvania, call and we'll line up a nearby specialist who brings the extraction gear and dehumidifiers to deal with it properly.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
That's newer than 51% of the 28,807 US places we track. Newer doesn't mean leak-proof, though. It only changes what's likely to fail.
That's drier than 52% of the 30,291 places we track. It's enough that a clogged gutter or a poor slope by the wall will show itself sooner or later.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before August is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Ice and snow come first here. It's the hard freeze that does the damage, so know where your main valve is before one arrives. That leaves out 2 for causes such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
No need to get it perfect. These are the things that make the biggest difference, in order.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
Typical build year
By now, most homes from this era have had some plumbing replaced, and the leftover sections are usually the risk. Look for gray galvanized pipe next to newer copper or plastic, because those joints can corrode. If you've had a few sewer backups, the old line itself may be the cause.
It's also worth replacing rubber washing machine hoses with braided steel. It's a ten-minute job, and those hoses cause a surprising number of flooded laundry rooms.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Northeast
Cold drives much of the damage here. Long freezes split pipes in outside walls, ice dams force meltwater under shingles, and nor'easters bring heavy snow, rain and coastal flooding together. The remains of a tropical storm can also stall over the region and flood rivers far inland.
Older homes here have their own way of handling water, and it isn't always a good one. Stone cellars let it in, plaster holds it and steam systems can spring a leak in the middle of winter. Row houses add a neighbor's pipes to the list of things that can flood you.
The ground fills up quickly, and bedrock sends water sideways. Old stone foundations have plenty of gaps for it to find. If your basement only gets wet in spring, or after long rain, the ground is the likely cause, and a sump pump is worth a look.
Water won't leave a cold wall quickly. Bringing in controlled heat warms the materials and speeds things up, and dehumidifiers catch what comes out. That's especially useful with stone foundations and old plaster.
When you call
We'll ask where you are, what happened and whether the water's still running. That takes a couple of minutes. Then we'll connect you with a specialist from our network who works in Blair County, and you can ask them when they can be there before you hang up. Homes and commercial buildings are both fine.
When the specialist arrives, the first job is finding where the water went, because that's rarely where it's pooled. Thermal cameras and moisture meters show how far it has traveled behind walls. They'll also work out what kind of water it is. Category 1 is clean water from a supply line, Category 2 is dirty, like a washer overflow, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. Category 3 means sealing the area with plastic, called containment, and running negative air machines with HEPA filters to keep the dirty air away from the rest of your home.
Drying is a process, and you'll have strange machines in the house for a few days. The bulk of the water goes first, by truck-mounted or portable extractor. Air movers then lift moisture off surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers remove it from the air. A cold building or dense material may need desiccant units instead. Daily psychrometric readings show if the air is still pulling water out.
A wall can feel dry and still hold plenty of water. That's why the specialist measures a dry standard from unaffected wood and drywall nearby and keeps the equipment running until the wet areas match. This is the method in the IICRC S500 standard, and those moisture logs back up your insurance claim.
Don't write everything off just because it's wet. Clean-water carpet can usually be dried where it sits, with new pad underneath. Hardwood floors respond well to floor drying mats if you get to them early, though you may see some cupping for a while. And drywall usually needs a flood cut near the floor, not a whole new wall.
If it was sewage or floodwater, porous things usually can't be saved. Carpet, pad and soaked insulation go in the dumpster, and studs and hard floors get cleaned and disinfected. Keep clear of any gas appliance that was underwater, and of any floor with a bit of bounce, until a professional has checked them.
From one end of Shellytown to the other, and on through Blair County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
It depends on the time and the weather, but same-day help is what we aim for, and it's often a matter of hours. The local specialist will give you a time on the phone, so you're not left guessing.
Some of it, yes. A bit of clean water on tile is a job for a mop and a fan. It's different when water has got under the flooring or into a wall, or when it's dirty. Household fans can't dry a wall cavity, and sewage isn't safe to handle.
It depends on how much got wet and for how long. A fresh leak in one room could be dry in a couple of days, while a soaked floor and walls may need a week. You'll see daily readings, so you'll know how it's going.
It depends on time and on the water. For hardwood, floor drying panels and patience can do a lot, though refinishing may still be needed. For carpet, clean water usually means new pad and the same carpet. Contaminated water means replacing both.
Many water losses are covered, so it's worth checking. The usual line is sudden versus gradual: a burst supply line is generally covered, and a slow drip often isn't. Flood damage needs a separate flood policy, and a sewer backup may need an extra rider.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.