Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Whatever got wet in your Laurel home, the next few hours matter more than the next few days. Call us and we'll find a restoration specialist from our network who works in Yellowstone County, Montana, and can get dehumidifiers and extraction equipment to you soon.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
That's newer than 49% of the 28,807 US places we track. Newer doesn't mean leak-proof, though. It only changes what's likely to fail.
That's drier than 92% of the 30,291 places we track. Less rain doesn't mean less risk indoors. Most damage here starts with plumbing, and when a big storm does come, dry ground doesn't soak it up.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before May is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Nothing clearly tops this list. It's a good reason to know where your main valve is before you need it. That leaves out 9 for causes such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
These are the steps that help most before anyone gets there. Do what you safely can.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
The clock on mold is roughly 24 to 48 hours, which is why we'd rather hear from you early.
Typical build year
Homes from these decades often still have their first galvanized pipes, or a mix of galvanized and newer copper. Where those two metals meet is a common place for a leak to start. Some homes from the middle of this period also have sewer lines made of a tar-paper pipe called Orangeburg, which sags and collapses with age.
Look where pipes join around the water heater and under sinks, and check for rust or green crust. Slow drains in several rooms are worth a sewer camera, and that's a lot cheaper than a backup.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The mountains and high plains
If you've lived through a few winters here, you know the pattern. It's the deep cold that splits the pipe, and the thaw that shows you where. Ice dams push water up under the shingles, spring snowmelt comes all at once, and summer hail can finish off what's left of an old roof.
A burst pipe in a cabin nobody's visited for three weeks is about as bad as water damage gets. Even in a home you live in, a basement can take on a lot of water before anyone goes down there. And vapor barriers meant to keep walls warm also keep water in.
Frozen ground can't absorb snowmelt, so a spring thaw runs across the surface toward whatever's lowest, often a basement window or walkout door. Rocky mountain soil and heavy plains clay both make it hard for water to get away from a foundation.
In air this dry, the surface gives up water quickly and the core doesn't. That's why moisture meter readings go right into the framing and subfloor, and the equipment stays until those deep numbers come down.
When you call
First we'll want to know three things: where you are in Laurel, where the water came from and if it's stopped. From there, we'll connect you with a local specialist from our network, so you're speaking to someone who works in Yellowstone County. That goes for homeowners, landlords and businesses alike.
Expect a walk through the house with a thermal camera and a moisture meter, because what you can see is usually only part of it. The specialist will also tell you which of the three categories you've got. Category 1 water is clean, Category 2 is dirty, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. That last one changes the job, with plastic containment around the work area and negative air machines pushing air through HEPA filters.
Then comes the drying, and this is the part people underestimate. Standing water comes out first, with truck-mounted or portable units. Air movers then push moist air off wet surfaces, while low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers pull the water out of the air. If your house runs cold or the materials are dense, desiccant units can take over. Each day, readings of temperature and humidity, known as psychrometric readings, show whether the machines are keeping up.
Looking dry and being dry are two different things. The specialist takes moisture readings from unaffected parts of your home to set a dry standard, and the machines keep going until everything wet matches it. That's how the IICRC S500 guidance says to do it, and the daily log gives your insurer the proof it asks for.
Don't write everything off just because it's wet. Clean-water carpet can usually be dried where it sits, with new pad underneath. Hardwood floors respond well to floor drying mats if you get to them early, though you may see some cupping for a while. And drywall usually needs a flood cut near the floor, not a whole new wall.
If it was sewage or floodwater, porous things usually can't be saved. Carpet, pad and soaked insulation go in the dumpster, and studs and hard floors get cleaned and disinfected. Keep clear of any gas appliance that was underwater, and of any floor with a bit of bounce, until a professional has checked them.
From one end of Laurel to the other, and on through Yellowstone County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
We aim to have a specialist on the way the same day, often within hours. When a big storm hits all of Yellowstone County at once, it can take longer, so it pays to call early. The steps above will help while you wait.
You can handle a minor spill if it's clean water and it hasn't gone anywhere. For anything that's reached the carpet pad, the walls or the floor below, professional drying really does make a difference, and floodwater or sewage should be left to people with the right protective gear.
Most homes take three to five days of drying once the water's out. Dense materials such as hardwood and plaster can take longer, and any rebuilding comes afterward.
Quite often. Floor mats and steady air can save hardwood that would otherwise be torn out, so tell the specialist about it first thing. With carpet, it all depends on the water: clean means dry it and replace the pad, sewage or floodwater means it comes out.
Sudden and accidental damage, such as a pipe that bursts, is usually covered. Slow leaks and rising floodwater usually aren't, unless you've got flood insurance. Take pictures before cleaning up and keep every receipt, because your insurance company will ask.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.