Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Whatever got wet in your Heron home, the next few hours matter more than the next few days. Call us and we'll find a restoration specialist from our network who works in Sanders County, Montana, and can get dehumidifiers and extraction equipment to you soon.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Housing here is newer than in 59% of the 28,807 places on our list. So you're less likely to have old pipes, and more likely to have plastic lines and fittings that are starting to age.
That's drier than 70% of the 30,291 places we track. Less rain doesn't mean less risk indoors. Most damage here starts with plumbing, and when a big storm does come, dry ground doesn't soak it up.
If you've been meaning to clear the gutters, do it before January comes around.
Storms top this list. High wind lifts shingles and flashing, and the next rain finds the gap. Not counted here: 9 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
You don't have to do all of this. Do what's safe, in this order, and leave the rest.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
Typical build year
Homes from these decades often still have their first galvanized pipes, or a mix of galvanized and newer copper. Where those two metals meet is a common place for a leak to start. Some homes from the middle of this period also have sewer lines made of a tar-paper pipe called Orangeburg, which sags and collapses with age.
Look where pipes join around the water heater and under sinks, and check for rust or green crust. Slow drains in several rooms are worth a sewer camera, and that's a lot cheaper than a backup.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The mountains and high plains
Winter does much of the damage here. Long cold snaps freeze pipes in outside walls and unheated spaces, ice dams back meltwater under shingles, and a fast spring thaw sends snowmelt toward your foundation. Summer adds hail big enough to break roofing and skylights.
Homes here are built tight against the cold, and that's good until water gets in. Then insulation and vapor barriers hold it inside the wall. A finished basement raises the stakes, and if you leave for the winter, it's worth turning off the water before you go.
Frozen ground can't absorb snowmelt, so a spring thaw runs across the surface toward whatever's lowest, often a basement window or walkout door. Rocky mountain soil and heavy plains clay both make it hard for water to get away from a foundation.
Dry mountain air can make a surface look done long before it is. Moisture stays deep in studs, subfloors and insulation behind vapor barriers, so specialists rely on digital moisture meters to confirm that it's dry all the way through.
When you call
We'll ask where you are, what happened and whether the water's still running. That takes a couple of minutes. Then we'll connect you with a specialist from our network who works in Sanders County, and you can ask them when they can be there before you hang up. Homes and commercial buildings are both fine.
When the specialist arrives, the first job is finding where the water went, because that's rarely where it's pooled. Thermal cameras and moisture meters show how far it has traveled behind walls. They'll also work out what kind of water it is. Category 1 is clean water from a supply line, Category 2 is dirty, like a washer overflow, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. Category 3 means sealing the area with plastic, called containment, and running negative air machines with HEPA filters to keep the dirty air away from the rest of your home.
Getting the water out is the quick part. A truck-mounted or portable extractor handles that. After that, air movers sweep across wet surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers take that moisture out of the room. In cold or dense spaces, desiccant dehumidifiers work better. You'll hear the machines day and night for a while, and daily psychrometric readings of the air show that they're working.
So how do you know it's done? It's done when the numbers say so. A dry baseline from untouched materials in your house is the target, and each wet area has to reach it before the equipment leaves. It follows the IICRC S500 standard, and you get a record of the readings for your insurance claim.
More than you'd think, if it's caught early. Carpet soaked with clean water can often be dried in place once the pad's been pulled. Hardwood is worth trying to save too, with floor drying mats and slow drying, though it may need refinishing. Drywall that's wet only at the base can be cut a little above the waterline instead of being replaced to the ceiling, which is what a flood cut is.
Contaminated water is where the rules get strict. Sewage or floodwater means the carpet and pad come out, along with wet insulation, and what's left gets an antimicrobial treatment. It's also not safe to relight a gas appliance that's been underwater until someone's checked it, and a soft floor needs a look before anyone stands on it.
Wherever you are in Heron, the number's the same. We'll connect you with a specialist working in Sanders County, for a home or a commercial building.
We aim to have a specialist on the way the same day, often within hours. When a big storm hits all of Sanders County at once, it can take longer, so it pays to call early. The steps above will help while you wait.
Small and clean, yes. Large or dirty, no. A shop vac and fans can deal with a little water on a hard surface, but they won't reach what's soaked into drywall and subfloor. That hidden moisture is where mold and rot get started.
Most homes take three to five days of drying once the water's out. Dense materials such as hardwood and plaster can take longer, and any rebuilding comes afterward.
Hardwood is more forgiving than people think. Floor drying mats pull moisture up through the boards, and refinishing can take care of what's left. Carpet can usually stay if the water was clean, as long as the pad's replaced. If the water was dirty, it can't.
Often, but not always. Insurers tend to pay for sudden leaks and not for long-term seepage. Flooding from outside needs its own policy. Call your insurance company early, and keep the moisture logs and photos, since they make the claim much easier.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.