Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
A leak at 2 a.m. doesn't wait for business hours, and neither do we. If water's getting into your home or business in Ballwin, Missouri, call and we'll line up a nearby specialist who brings the extraction gear and dehumidifiers to deal with it properly.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Homes around Ballwin are newer than in 57% of the 28,807 places we track, which changes what tends to go wrong more than whether it does.
That's wetter than 60% of the 30,291 places we track. It's enough that a clogged gutter or a poor slope by the wall will show itself sooner or later.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before May is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Flood is the big one on this list, and a standard homeowners policy doesn't usually cover it. That leaves out 2 for causes such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
Go through these in order and skip anything that doesn't feel safe. None of it is worth getting hurt over.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
Typical build year
Homes from these decades often still have their first galvanized pipes, or a mix of galvanized and newer copper. Where those two metals meet is a common place for a leak to start. Some homes from the middle of this period also have sewer lines made of a tar-paper pipe called Orangeburg, which sags and collapses with age.
Look where pipes join around the water heater and under sinks, and check for rust or green crust. Slow drains in several rooms are worth a sewer camera, and that's a lot cheaper than a backup.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Midwest
Severe storms and hard winters both cause trouble here. Spring and summer bring thunderstorms that drop inches of rain and overload sewers, and river flooding can follow days of heavy rain upstream. In winter, deep cold bursts pipes, and ice dams push meltwater through ceilings.
The basement is usually where it happens. Block walls can seep, the sump pump may fail just when you need it and the floor drain can run backward in a storm. A battery backup on the pump is one of the best small things you can buy.
Heavy clay and glacial till hold water close to the foundation. After long rain, the pressure pushes it through cracks and the joint where the walls meet the floor. That's why basements leak here even without any plumbing fault.
Basement air doesn't go anywhere by itself. So the drying has to create the movement, with air movers along the walls and floor, and big dehumidifiers running nonstop. Concrete and block give up water slowly, so basement drying takes patience.
When you call
It starts with a few quick questions: your address, what happened and how long it's been wet. Then we'll connect you with someone from our network who works in St. Louis County. Your own home, a rental or a business, you'll know what's next before the call ends.
When the specialist arrives, the first job is finding where the water went, because that's rarely where it's pooled. Thermal cameras and moisture meters show how far it has traveled behind walls. They'll also work out what kind of water it is. Category 1 is clean water from a supply line, Category 2 is dirty, like a washer overflow, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. Category 3 means sealing the area with plastic, called containment, and running negative air machines with HEPA filters to keep the dirty air away from the rest of your home.
Getting the water out is the quick part. A truck-mounted or portable extractor handles that. After that, air movers sweep across wet surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers take that moisture out of the room. In cold or dense spaces, desiccant dehumidifiers work better. You'll hear the machines day and night for a while, and daily psychrometric readings of the air show that they're working.
Looking dry and being dry are two different things. The specialist takes moisture readings from unaffected parts of your home to set a dry standard, and the machines keep going until everything wet matches it. That's how the IICRC S500 guidance says to do it, and the daily log gives your insurer the proof it asks for.
Most people expect to lose more than they do. Carpet that's only had clean water on it can usually be dried, though the pad underneath gets replaced. Drying mats can bring cupped hardwood back, given time. Walls often need only a flood cut, where the bottom of the drywall comes off and new board goes in.
Things change when the water's dirty. Anything soft that sewage or floodwater reached, such as carpet, pad and insulation, gets thrown out. Hard surfaces get cleaned and treated. Have a professional look at any gas appliance that got wet before you turn it back on, and don't walk on a floor that's gone spongy.
From one end of Ballwin to the other, and on through St. Louis County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
Usually the same day, and often within a few hours. It depends on who's closest and how busy St. Louis County is. If a storm has just gone through, everyone's calling at once, so call as soon as you can.
If it's small, clean and caught quickly, go ahead. If it has been sitting, has gone under the floor or smells bad, that's the time to call. The trouble with doing it yourself is that everything can look dry on top and still be wet underneath.
It depends on how much got wet and for how long. A fresh leak in one room could be dry in a couple of days, while a soaked floor and walls may need a week. You'll see daily readings, so you'll know how it's going.
Often, yes, if drying starts quickly. Hardwood can come back with floor drying mats and slow, controlled drying, though it may cup for a while and need refinishing. Carpet soaked by clean water can usually be saved with a new pad. Carpet that sewage or floodwater touched has to go.
Many water losses are covered, so it's worth checking. The usual line is sudden versus gradual: a burst supply line is generally covered, and a slow drip often isn't. Flood damage needs a separate flood policy, and a sewer backup may need an extra rider.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.