Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
A leak at 2 a.m. doesn't wait for business hours, and neither do we. If water's getting into your home or business in Lawrence, Kansas, call and we'll line up a nearby specialist who brings the extraction gear and dehumidifiers to deal with it properly.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Homes around Lawrence are newer than in 80% of the 28,807 places we track, which changes what tends to go wrong more than whether it does.
Lawrence gets less than 56% of the 30,291 places on our list. Low totals can fool you. Roofs and drains get little practice here, so problems tend to show up all at once in the one big storm.
Check your drains and the slope around the house ahead of June. It takes an afternoon, and it can save a lot of drying later.
Severe storms come first here. If one has been through lately, it's worth a look in the attic, even if your ceilings look fine. We've left out 5 for other causes, such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
These are the steps that help most before anyone gets there. Do what you safely can.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
Typical build year
Homes from these years often had plastic plumbing put in, and one type stands out. Polybutylene, usually gray and often stamped PB, was widely used until the mid 1990s and is known for failing without warning, usually at the fittings.
Check the exposed lines near your water heater and under the sinks. While you're there, look at the tank's age on its label. Eight to twelve years is about all you can expect, and when one fails, it fails on the floor.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The southern plains
The weather here swings between extremes: hail and heavy rain in spring, long hot summers, and winter cold snaps that arrive with little warning. Each brings its own kind of leak, from a wet ceiling after a storm to a burst line in the wall when the thaw comes.
Houses here were built with the heat in mind more than the water. Carpet over concrete wicks up a leak fast. HVAC units and water heaters often sit in the attic, right over your living room. And if your home's on a slab, a leak underneath may only show as damp carpet along one wall, or as baseboards starting to swell.
Clay soil swells when it's wet and shrinks when it's dry. Over the years, that movement can crack a slab and the pipes beneath it. It also sheds hard rain instead of soaking it up, and that water has to go somewhere, often toward your garage or back door.
A leak under a slab needs its own approach. Specialists use acoustic listening equipment and thermal imaging to find the break without jackhammering the whole floor, and then dry the flooring and the bottom of the walls around it.
When you call
Don't worry about having the right words. Just tell us what you're seeing. We'll get your address and a rough idea of the damage, then put you through to a specialist in our network who works around Lawrence. They handle homes and commercial property, and they'll give you a time.
The first hour is mostly detective work. Using thermal imaging and moisture meters, the specialist traces the water through walls and floors. Then they'll sort it into Category 1, 2 or 3, from clean supply line water to sewage or floodwater. If it's Category 3, they'll seal the area with plastic sheeting and set up negative air with HEPA filtration, so the contaminated air stays put.
Drying is a process, and you'll have strange machines in the house for a few days. The bulk of the water goes first, by truck-mounted or portable extractor. Air movers then lift moisture off surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers remove it from the air. A cold building or dense material may need desiccant units instead. Daily psychrometric readings show if the air is still pulling water out.
Looking dry and being dry are two different things. The specialist takes moisture readings from unaffected parts of your home to set a dry standard, and the machines keep going until everything wet matches it. That's how the IICRC S500 guidance says to do it, and the daily log gives your insurer the proof it asks for.
It depends mostly on how fast drying starts and how dirty the water was. With clean water, carpet can usually stay and the pad goes. Hardwood often comes back with drying mats and patience, and sanding can take care of what's left. Walls may only need a flood cut, which removes the bottom section of drywall, so the rest stays put.
The exception is dirty water. Whatever soft material sewage or floodwater touched has to be removed, and the rest gets an antimicrobial cleaning. Don't relight a gas heater or water heater that sat in water, and if a floor feels soft, stay off it and mention it on the call.
Calls come to us from homeowners, landlords and business owners across Lawrence and Douglas County. Give us your address, and we'll find out who's closest.
Usually the same day, and often within a few hours. It depends on who's closest and how busy Douglas County is. If a storm has just gone through, everyone's calling at once, so call as soon as you can.
If it's small, clean and caught quickly, go ahead. If it has been sitting, has gone under the floor or smells bad, that's the time to call. The trouble with doing it yourself is that everything can look dry on top and still be wet underneath.
Plan on several days. Three to five is typical, though a small, fresh leak may be quicker and a large flood may take over a week. The readings decide when it's done, not the calendar.
Often, yes, if drying starts quickly. Hardwood can come back with floor drying mats and slow, controlled drying, though it may cup for a while and need refinishing. Carpet soaked by clean water can usually be saved with a new pad. Carpet that sewage or floodwater touched has to go.
That's between you and your insurance company, but most policies cover sudden water damage from inside the home. Flood is separate, and sewer backup is often an add-on. Your best help is good records: photos from the start, plus the daily drying readings.
Tell us what's happening, and we'll line up a specialist from our network in Douglas County. That's all you need to do for now.