Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Water where it shouldn't be gets stressful fast, and it keeps spreading while you work out what to do. If it's a burst pipe, a soaked ceiling or storm water at the door in Gas, Kansas, call us. We'll get a specialist from our network of local restoration companies moving toward you, with extraction equipment and dehumidifiers.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Homes around Gas are newer than in 54% of the 28,807 places we track, which changes what tends to go wrong more than whether it does.
That's wetter than 52% of the 30,291 places we track. That's plenty of water to find a tired roof, a blocked downspout or a low spot by the foundation.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before May is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Severe storms lead the list here. They can open up a roof in minutes, and you may not see the leak for days. We've left out 5 for other causes, such as fire or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
These are the steps that help most before anyone gets there. Do what you safely can.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
Mold can get started within 24 to 48 hours, so it's worth calling even if the worst seems over.
Typical build year
A lot of plumbing from these years has reached the end of its life. Galvanized steel narrows from the inside as it rusts, so weak water pressure can be a warning, not just an annoyance. Cast iron drains can crack, and fittings where old meets new are often the first thing to go.
Have a look under the kitchen and bathroom sinks and around the water heater. Any rust, drips or green staining is worth having a plumber check before it turns into a call to us.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The southern plains
Spring storms here don't mess around. Hail cracks shingles and skylights, and the rain can come faster than the gutters can take it. You might not see the leak until days later, on a ceiling two rooms away from the actual damage. A hard freeze is rarer, but when one lasts a day or two it splits pipes that were never protected for it.
A lot of homes here are built on slabs, with brick veneer over wood framing. Water that gets behind the brick can wet the studs and insulation without showing inside. Older neighborhoods still have pier-and-beam houses, where moisture collects in the crawlspace. Attic water heaters and air conditioning units add another risk, because a clogged condensate line drains straight through your ceiling.
Clay soil swells when it's wet and shrinks when it's dry. Over the years, that movement can crack a slab and the pipes beneath it. It also sheds hard rain instead of soaking it up, and that water has to go somewhere, often toward your garage or back door.
Water under a slab rarely shows on top. Acoustic equipment listens for the break in the line, thermal imaging maps the wet area, and drying then goes after the carpet, pad and bottom plates above it. It saves a lot of demolition.
When you call
We'll ask where you are, what happened and whether the water's still running. That takes a couple of minutes. Then we'll connect you with a specialist from our network who works in Allen County, and you can ask them when they can be there before you hang up. Homes and commercial buildings are both fine.
When the specialist arrives, the first job is finding where the water went, because that's rarely where it's pooled. Thermal cameras and moisture meters show how far it has traveled behind walls. They'll also work out what kind of water it is. Category 1 is clean water from a supply line, Category 2 is dirty, like a washer overflow, and Category 3 is sewage or floodwater. Category 3 means sealing the area with plastic, called containment, and running negative air machines with HEPA filters to keep the dirty air away from the rest of your home.
Drying is a process, and you'll have strange machines in the house for a few days. The bulk of the water goes first, by truck-mounted or portable extractor. Air movers then lift moisture off surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers remove it from the air. A cold building or dense material may need desiccant units instead. Daily psychrometric readings show if the air is still pulling water out.
The finish line isn't when things look dry. Readings from dry wood and drywall in your own house set the target, called the dry standard, and the equipment stays until the wet areas reach it. That's the IICRC S500 standard for water damage at work, and those daily records are what your insurance company wants to see.
Don't write everything off just because it's wet. Clean-water carpet can usually be dried where it sits, with new pad underneath. Hardwood floors respond well to floor drying mats if you get to them early, though you may see some cupping for a while. And drywall usually needs a flood cut near the floor, not a whole new wall.
If it was sewage or floodwater, porous things usually can't be saved. Carpet, pad and soaked insulation go in the dumpster, and studs and hard floors get cleaned and disinfected. Keep clear of any gas appliance that was underwater, and of any floor with a bit of bounce, until a professional has checked them.
From one end of Gas to the other, and on through Allen County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
It depends on the time and the weather, but same-day help is what we aim for, and it's often a matter of hours. The local specialist will give you a time on the phone, so you're not left guessing.
A small spill of clean water on a hard floor? Sure. Towels and a fan will do it. But if the water's in the walls, the carpet pad or the subfloor, or it came from a sewer or a flood, you'll want it extracted and properly dried. What you can't see is what keeps causing damage.
Usually three to five days for the drying alone. The specialist can tell you more after the first readings. Materials such as hardwood, plaster and concrete hold on to water longer, and repairs can only begin when they're dry.
Usually, with clean water and a fast start. Drying mats sit on hardwood and draw the moisture out slowly so the boards don't split. Sanding and refinishing can fix any cupping that's left. Carpet needs a new pad, and it can't be saved at all after sewage or floodwater.
That's between you and your insurance company, but most policies cover sudden water damage from inside the home. Flood is separate, and sewer backup is often an add-on. Your best help is good records: photos from the start, plus the daily drying readings.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.