Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Whatever got wet in your Liberty Center home, the next few hours matter more than the next few days. Call us and we'll find a restoration specialist from our network who works in Wells County, Indiana, and can get dehumidifiers and extraction equipment to you soon.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Around 55% of the 30,291 places we track get more than this. It's enough that a clogged gutter or a poor slope by the wall will show itself sooner or later.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before June is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Ice and snow come first here. It's the hard freeze that does the damage, so know where your main valve is before one arrives. Not counted here: 2 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
These are the steps that help most before anyone gets there. Do what you safely can.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
There's no public build year for this spot, so here's the short list for any house. Check how old your water heater is, because 8 to 12 years is about the limit. Look under every sink for drips and stains, and replace rubber washer hoses if yours are more than a few years old.
If your home is older, look for rusty steel pipes. If it went up in the 1980s or early 1990s, look for gray plastic ones. Both have a habit of failing.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Midwest
There are two seasons for water damage here. One's the storm season, when heavy rain overwhelms drains and pushes water toward your foundation. The other's deep winter, when pipes in outside walls can split and ice on the roof sends water back under the shingles.
Most homes have full basements, and many are finished with carpet, drywall and furniture. Poured concrete or block walls can seep under pressure, floor drains can back up during storms, and a failed sump pump can put inches of water on the floor overnight.
When the ground's full, water pushes in from outside. Much of the soil here is dense clay, and there's nowhere else for it to go. Keeping downspouts well away from the walls and making sure the yard slopes away both take some of that pressure off.
Basement air doesn't go anywhere by itself. So the drying has to create the movement, with air movers along the walls and floor, and big dehumidifiers running nonstop. Concrete and block give up water slowly, so basement drying takes patience.
When you call
It starts with a few quick questions: your address, what happened and how long it's been wet. Then we'll connect you with someone from our network who works in Wells County. Your own home, a rental or a business, you'll know what's next before the call ends.
The first hour is mostly detective work. Using thermal imaging and moisture meters, the specialist traces the water through walls and floors. Then they'll sort it into Category 1, 2 or 3, from clean supply line water to sewage or floodwater. If it's Category 3, they'll seal the area with plastic sheeting and set up negative air with HEPA filtration, so the contaminated air stays put.
Most of the job is drying, and it's slower than people expect. Extraction units, often truck-mounted, take out the bulk water. Air movers and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers then do the long, loud work of pulling moisture out of walls and floors. Desiccant units come in when it's too cold or the materials are too dense for LGR machines. Psychrometric readings, which are daily checks of temperature and humidity, tell the specialist if the setup needs changing.
So how do you know it's done? It's done when the numbers say so. A dry baseline from untouched materials in your house is the target, and each wet area has to reach it before the equipment leaves. It follows the IICRC S500 standard, and you get a record of the readings for your insurance claim.
It depends mostly on how fast drying starts and how dirty the water was. With clean water, carpet can usually stay and the pad goes. Hardwood often comes back with drying mats and patience, and sanding can take care of what's left. Walls may only need a flood cut, which removes the bottom section of drywall, so the rest stays put.
Sewage and floodwater are a different story. Carpet they've touched has to go, and what stays gets cleaned and treated with an antimicrobial. Two more things to check before you use the room again: a gas appliance that sat in water, and any floor that feels soft underfoot.
We take calls from all over Liberty Center and the rest of Wells County, for houses, apartments and commercial buildings. If you're not sure you're close enough, just ask.
Usually the same day, and often within a few hours. It depends on who's closest and how busy Wells County is. If a storm has just gone through, everyone's calling at once, so call as soon as you can.
Some of it, yes. A bit of clean water on tile is a job for a mop and a fan. It's different when water has got under the flooring or into a wall, or when it's dirty. Household fans can't dry a wall cavity, and sewage isn't safe to handle.
Most homes take three to five days of drying once the water's out. Dense materials such as hardwood and plaster can take longer, and any rebuilding comes afterward.
Quite often. Floor mats and steady air can save hardwood that would otherwise be torn out, so tell the specialist about it first thing. With carpet, it all depends on the water: clean means dry it and replace the pad, sewage or floodwater means it comes out.
Often, but not always. Insurers tend to pay for sudden leaks and not for long-term seepage. Flooding from outside needs its own policy. Call your insurance company early, and keep the moisture logs and photos, since they make the claim much easier.
Tell us what's happening, and we'll line up a specialist from our network in Wells County. That's all you need to do for now.