Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Maybe a pipe let go, maybe the storm found a way in. Either way, you don't have to sort this out alone. Call us from Crane, Indiana, and we'll put you in touch with a restoration specialist from our network, with truck-mounted extraction and dehumidifiers for the drying that follows.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
Homes around Crane are older than in 78% of the 28,807 places we track. That usually means more joints, more repairs and more places for water to get out.
That's wetter than 68% of the 30,291 places we track. A normal year here brings enough water to find any weak spot in a roof or along a foundation wall.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before May is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
No one kind of weather leads the list here. Whatever brings the water in, the first job is the same: stop it, then start drying. Not counted here: 2 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
A few minutes now can save days of drying later. If something doesn't feel safe, skip it and tell us when you call.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
You've got about 24 to 48 hours to start drying before rot and mold become the bigger problem.
Typical build year
A lot of plumbing from these years has reached the end of its life. Galvanized steel narrows from the inside as it rusts, so weak water pressure can be a warning, not just an annoyance. Cast iron drains can crack, and fittings where old meets new are often the first thing to go.
Have a look under the kitchen and bathroom sinks and around the water heater. Any rust, drips or green staining is worth having a plumber check before it turns into a call to us.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Midwest
Summer storms can fill the sewers in an hour, and that's when floor drains start to back up. Rivers rise for days after the rain has stopped. Then winter brings a different problem, with frozen pipes that show themselves at the thaw, and ice dams along the roof edge.
Most homes have full basements, and many are finished with carpet, drywall and furniture. Poured concrete or block walls can seep under pressure, floor drains can back up during storms, and a failed sump pump can put inches of water on the floor overnight.
When the ground's full, water pushes in from outside. Much of the soil here is dense clay, and there's nowhere else for it to go. Keeping downspouts well away from the walls and making sure the yard slopes away both take some of that pressure off.
A basement has no real airflow and hangs on to cool, damp air. So the air has to be pushed. Air movers run low and fast over the floor, and large dehumidifiers keep pulling the water out of the bottom of your walls.
When you call
Don't worry about having the right words. Just tell us what you're seeing. We'll get your address and a rough idea of the damage, then put you through to a specialist in our network who works around Crane. They handle homes and commercial property, and they'll give you a time.
Water travels through walls without leaving a mark, so the first step is measuring, not mopping. A thermal camera and moisture meters map the wet area. Next comes the question of what's in the water. Category 1 is clean supply water. Category 2 has been in contact with something, like a dishwasher overflow. Category 3 is sewage or floodwater, and it calls for containment: plastic sheeting, plus negative air machines with HEPA filters, so nothing spreads through the house.
Getting the water out is the quick part. A truck-mounted or portable extractor handles that. After that, air movers sweep across wet surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers take that moisture out of the room. In cold or dense spaces, desiccant dehumidifiers work better. You'll hear the machines day and night for a while, and daily psychrometric readings of the air show that they're working.
A wall can feel dry and still hold plenty of water. That's why the specialist measures a dry standard from unaffected wood and drywall nearby and keeps the equipment running until the wet areas match. This is the method in the IICRC S500 standard, and those moisture logs back up your insurance claim.
More than you'd think, if it's caught early. Carpet soaked with clean water can often be dried in place once the pad's been pulled. Hardwood is worth trying to save too, with floor drying mats and slow drying, though it may need refinishing. Drywall that's wet only at the base can be cut a little above the waterline instead of being replaced to the ceiling, which is what a flood cut is.
The exception is dirty water. Whatever soft material sewage or floodwater touched has to be removed, and the rest gets an antimicrobial cleaning. Don't relight a gas heater or water heater that sat in water, and if a floor feels soft, stay off it and mention it on the call.
Calls come to us from homeowners, landlords and business owners across Crane and Martin County. Give us your address, and we'll find out who's closest.
In most cases you'll have someone on the way that day. You can ask for a time when you're connected with the specialist. It may take longer after a storm, when much of Crane needs help at once.
You can handle a minor spill if it's clean water and it hasn't gone anywhere. For anything that's reached the carpet pad, the walls or the floor below, professional drying really does make a difference, and floodwater or sewage should be left to people with the right protective gear.
Usually three to five days for the drying alone. The specialist can tell you more after the first readings. Materials such as hardwood, plaster and concrete hold on to water longer, and repairs can only begin when they're dry.
Quite often. Floor mats and steady air can save hardwood that would otherwise be torn out, so tell the specialist about it first thing. With carpet, it all depends on the water: clean means dry it and replace the pad, sewage or floodwater means it comes out.
Many water losses are covered, so it's worth checking. The usual line is sudden versus gradual: a burst supply line is generally covered, and a slow drip often isn't. Flood damage needs a separate flood policy, and a sewer backup may need an extra rider.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.