Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
A leak at 2 a.m. doesn't wait for business hours, and neither do we. If water's getting into your home or business in Buck Creek, Indiana, call and we'll line up a nearby specialist who brings the extraction gear and dehumidifiers to deal with it properly.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
That's drier than 58% of the 30,291 places we track. Low totals can fool you. Roofs and drains get little practice here, so problems tend to show up all at once in the one big storm.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before June is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
Ice and winter storms lead the list here. Pipes freeze and split, and you often don't know until the thaw, when the water starts running. Not counted here: 2 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
Go through these in order and skip anything that doesn't feel safe. None of it is worth getting hurt over.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
Mold can get started within 24 to 48 hours, so it's worth calling even if the worst seems over.
There's no public build year for this spot, so here's the short list for any house. Check how old your water heater is, because 8 to 12 years is about the limit. Look under every sink for drips and stains, and replace rubber washer hoses if yours are more than a few years old.
If your home is older, look for rusty steel pipes. If it went up in the 1980s or early 1990s, look for gray plastic ones. Both have a habit of failing.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Midwest
Severe storms and hard winters both cause trouble here. Spring and summer bring thunderstorms that drop inches of rain and overload sewers, and river flooding can follow days of heavy rain upstream. In winter, deep cold bursts pipes, and ice dams push meltwater through ceilings.
The basement is usually where it happens. Block walls can seep, the sump pump may fail just when you need it and the floor drain can run backward in a storm. A battery backup on the pump is one of the best small things you can buy.
When the ground's full, water pushes in from outside. Much of the soil here is dense clay, and there's nowhere else for it to go. Keeping downspouts well away from the walls and making sure the yard slopes away both take some of that pressure off.
Basement air doesn't go anywhere by itself. So the drying has to create the movement, with air movers along the walls and floor, and big dehumidifiers running nonstop. Concrete and block give up water slowly, so basement drying takes patience.
When you call
We'll ask where you are, what happened and whether the water's still running. That takes a couple of minutes. Then we'll connect you with a specialist from our network who works in Tippecanoe County, and you can ask them when they can be there before you hang up. Homes and commercial buildings are both fine.
The first hour is mostly detective work. Using thermal imaging and moisture meters, the specialist traces the water through walls and floors. Then they'll sort it into Category 1, 2 or 3, from clean supply line water to sewage or floodwater. If it's Category 3, they'll seal the area with plastic sheeting and set up negative air with HEPA filtration, so the contaminated air stays put.
Drying is a process, and you'll have strange machines in the house for a few days. The bulk of the water goes first, by truck-mounted or portable extractor. Air movers then lift moisture off surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers remove it from the air. A cold building or dense material may need desiccant units instead. Daily psychrometric readings show if the air is still pulling water out.
Nobody should take the machines away just because a wall feels dry. The target is the dry standard, measured from sound materials in your own home, and the job follows the IICRC S500 standard until the readings match. Ask for a copy of the daily log. Your insurer will want it.
A lot of it can stay if you move quickly. If the water was clean, the carpet is often fine once the pad is replaced. Hardwood needs slow, careful drying with mats, and it may want refinishing at the end. Drywall is the easy one: a flood cut takes off the wet part, a little above the waterline, and the top of the wall is untouched.
Sewage and floodwater are a different story. Carpet they've touched has to go, and what stays gets cleaned and treated with an antimicrobial. Two more things to check before you use the room again: a gas appliance that sat in water, and any floor that feels soft underfoot.
Calls come to us from homeowners, landlords and business owners across Buck Creek and Tippecanoe County. Give us your address, and we'll find out who's closest.
It depends on the time and the weather, but same-day help is what we aim for, and it's often a matter of hours. The local specialist will give you a time on the phone, so you're not left guessing.
Small and clean, yes. Large or dirty, no. A shop vac and fans can deal with a little water on a hard surface, but they won't reach what's soaked into drywall and subfloor. That hidden moisture is where mold and rot get started.
Most homes take three to five days of drying once the water's out. Dense materials such as hardwood and plaster can take longer, and any rebuilding comes afterward.
Usually, with clean water and a fast start. Drying mats sit on hardwood and draw the moisture out slowly so the boards don't split. Sanding and refinishing can fix any cupping that's left. Carpet needs a new pad, and it can't be saved at all after sewage or floodwater.
Sudden and accidental damage, such as a pipe that bursts, is usually covered. Slow leaks and rising floodwater usually aren't, unless you've got flood insurance. Take pictures before cleaning up and keep every receipt, because your insurance company will ask.
Tell us what's happening, and we'll line up a specialist from our network in Tippecanoe County. That's all you need to do for now.