Emergency Water Damage Restoration
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Water in the house? Call now, and we'll find you a local specialist.
Maybe a pipe let go, maybe the storm found a way in. Either way, you don't have to sort this out alone. Call us from Lost Nation, Illinois, and we'll put you in touch with a restoration specialist from our network, with truck-mounted extraction and dehumidifiers for the drying that follows.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163Someone picks up, day or night.
That's newer than 84% of the 28,807 US places we track. Newer doesn't mean leak-proof, though. It only changes what's likely to fail.
That's drier than 61% of the 30,291 places we track. Less rain doesn't mean less risk indoors. Most damage here starts with plumbing, and when a big storm does come, dry ground doesn't soak it up.
A look at the roof, gutters and downspouts before May is the cheapest repair you'll ever make.
None on the record so far, which is good news. A failed hose or a split pipe doesn't show up in federal records, though. Not counted here: 2 more for things like fires or the pandemic.
Before anyone arrives
These are the steps that help most before anyone gets there. Do what you safely can.
Look for the main valve near the meter or where the line comes into the house, and turn it slowly, since older valves can stick. If it's one fixture, its own shutoff valve will do.
If you can reach the breaker panel without stepping in water, switch off the wet rooms. If you can't, leave it alone, stay out of the water and tell us when you call.
Before you clean up, photograph the water, where it came from and whatever it damaged. Your insurance company will ask, and you only get one chance at those shots.
Move rugs, papers, photos and electronics to a dry room, and prop furniture up off the wet floor. Everything else can wait.
If the water is clean and the power's safe, open interior doors and run the fans you have. Stay out if it's sewage or floodwater, and keep that air away from the rest of the house.
Mold can get started within 24 to 48 hours, so it's worth calling even if the worst seems over.
Typical build year
If your house dates from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s, take a look at the pipes. Polybutylene went into a lot of homes in those years. It's gray plastic, and it has a habit of failing with no warning. You can often spot it at the water heater or under a sink.
Then there's the water heater itself. Most tanks last 8 to 12 years, so a house this age is probably on its second or third, and yours may be getting close. If you see polybutylene, it's worth asking a plumber about it, even if nothing's leaking yet.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
This is the call for water that's coming in right now. We get a local specialist on the way to stop the source, pull the water out and start drying the same day.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
The more water that comes out at this stage, the less has to be dried later. Pumps and extraction units clear carpet, pad, hardwood and tile, then everything the water touched gets cleaned.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Floodwater is never clean. It carries soil and sewage, so mud and silt get cleared, soaked drywall and insulation get cut out, and what stays gets disinfected.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
If your home has a basement, a failed sump pump or a backed-up drain can fill it fast. It gets pumped out, the concrete and block get dried, and someone finds out how the water got in.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Air movers and dehumidifiers run until the meters say your walls, subfloor and framing are back to normal. Not until they look dry. Until the readings prove it.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163
Once the structure is dry, the drywall, flooring, trim and paint go back. You'll have photos and notes for your claim along the way.
Call Now: (888) 596-0163The Midwest
Summer storms can fill the sewers in an hour, and that's when floor drains start to back up. Rivers rise for days after the rain has stopped. Then winter brings a different problem, with frozen pipes that show themselves at the thaw, and ice dams along the roof edge.
If you've got a finished basement, you've got a lot to lose down there. A sump pump that stops in a power outage is the classic cause, followed closely by a floor drain backing up in a storm. Water heaters and washers often live in the basement as well.
When the ground's full, water pushes in from outside. Much of the soil here is dense clay, and there's nowhere else for it to go. Keeping downspouts well away from the walls and making sure the yard slopes away both take some of that pressure off.
A wet basement dries slowly, because it's cool, low and closed in. Specialists set air movers low along the walls, run dehumidifiers sized for the space and check the concrete and framing each day until the readings come down.
When you call
The call itself is short. Tell us your address in Lost Nation, what got wet and if it's still coming in. We'll connect you with a restoration specialist from our network who covers Ogle County, and they'll tell you what they can do and when. It doesn't matter if it's a house, a rental or a business.
The first hour is mostly detective work. Using thermal imaging and moisture meters, the specialist traces the water through walls and floors. Then they'll sort it into Category 1, 2 or 3, from clean supply line water to sewage or floodwater. If it's Category 3, they'll seal the area with plastic sheeting and set up negative air with HEPA filtration, so the contaminated air stays put.
Getting the water out is the quick part. A truck-mounted or portable extractor handles that. After that, air movers sweep across wet surfaces, and low grain refrigerant (LGR) dehumidifiers take that moisture out of the room. In cold or dense spaces, desiccant dehumidifiers work better. You'll hear the machines day and night for a while, and daily psychrometric readings of the air show that they're working.
The finish line isn't when things look dry. Readings from dry wood and drywall in your own house set the target, called the dry standard, and the equipment stays until the wet areas reach it. That's the IICRC S500 standard for water damage at work, and those daily records are what your insurance company wants to see.
Don't write everything off just because it's wet. Clean-water carpet can usually be dried where it sits, with new pad underneath. Hardwood floors respond well to floor drying mats if you get to them early, though you may see some cupping for a while. And drywall usually needs a flood cut near the floor, not a whole new wall.
Contaminated water is where the rules get strict. Sewage or floodwater means the carpet and pad come out, along with wet insulation, and what's left gets an antimicrobial treatment. It's also not safe to relight a gas appliance that's been underwater until someone's checked it, and a soft floor needs a look before anyone stands on it.
From one end of Lost Nation to the other, and on through Ogle County, the first step is the same call. Homes and businesses are both covered.
Usually the same day, and often within a few hours. It depends on who's closest and how busy Ogle County is. If a storm has just gone through, everyone's calling at once, so call as soon as you can.
If it's small, clean and caught quickly, go ahead. If it has been sitting, has gone under the floor or smells bad, that's the time to call. The trouble with doing it yourself is that everything can look dry on top and still be wet underneath.
It depends on how much got wet and for how long. A fresh leak in one room could be dry in a couple of days, while a soaked floor and walls may need a week. You'll see daily readings, so you'll know how it's going.
It depends on time and on the water. For hardwood, floor drying panels and patience can do a lot, though refinishing may still be needed. For carpet, clean water usually means new pad and the same carpet. Contaminated water means replacing both.
That's between you and your insurance company, but most policies cover sudden water damage from inside the home. Flood is separate, and sewer backup is often an add-on. Your best help is good records: photos from the start, plus the daily drying readings.
The sooner drying starts, the less has to come out. One call gets a local specialist moving toward you.